We were glad to help Tasting Table dig into Carolina whole hog barbecue, from where the tradition started to where it’s headed. Our co-owner Michael Letchworth gave the North Carolina perspective alongside South Carolina pitmaster Robbie Robinson of City Limits Barbeque and historian David S. Shields.
Michael walked through how we do it at Sam Jones. We look for hogs in the 165 to 185 pound range and avoid breeds with a heavy fat cap. We burn oak and hickory down to coals to fire the pits, and we cook for 11 to 13 hours. Seasoning waits until after the hog is chopped. Then it gets salt, pepper, vinegar, and hot sauce, just enough to bring out the pork.
He also talked about where barbecue is going. As people move around and open restaurants that represent places they came from, regional lines are getting blurrier, and he sees that as a good thing. It keeps the craft moving forward while the fundamentals stay put.
We’re grateful to be part of a story that gives this tradition the attention it deserves.
Tasting Table (November 3, 2026) - “The basics of whole hog barbecue are easy to understand. A hog is hoisted onto a smoker and, many hours later, a feast is served. But the process is far from simple. Choosing the hog, selecting the smoker, and deciding which wood to use all influence the final product and contribute to the tradition's enduring reputation.
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Tasting Table: Everything You Need to Know About Carolina Whole Hog BBQ
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